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As histórias por trás
dos pratos.

Aberturas, mudanças de chefs, guias de cidade e as colunas do Peter — tudo à volta da mesa portuguesa, escrito de forma honesta.

— — A carregar meteorologia 📍 Faro, Algarve

Olhão, a very unique town in the Algarve

Olhão continues to be a very authentic place, where you have the feeling of still being in the real Portugal. The town center of the characteristic fishing village is characterized by a labyrinth of narrow alleys, small whitewashed houses and picturesque terraces. In the port near the markets, local farmers come to offer their fresh products.

Around the market halls there are all kinds of small cafes and bars where you can enjoy a Portuguese espresso coffee accompanied by one of the delicious sweets of the region. You’ll also find the inevitable port pubs.

The new avenue in Olhão is one of the most beautiful in the Algarve, with green parks, trendy restaurants and playgrounds.

The beaches are on islands where you can go by boat. For example, go to Armona or Culatra. Ferries depart from the pier near the markets. You can also take boat trips from Olhão through the Ria Formosa Natural Park. The Ria Formosa is made up of a 60 km strip of islands and peninsulas with lagoons and white sand beaches.

Olhão is known as the “Cubist City” due to its unique North African architecture.

Probably everything has to do with the trade that has always been done with North African cities and with the exchange of inhabitants. It is a Moorish architecture that is found not only in the oldest neighborhoods of Levante and Baretta , but also in newer neighborhoods such as Bairro do Mundo Novo. Nowhere in Portugal is this Cubist architecture as dominant as in Olhão.

The most memorable day in the history of Olhão was over two hundred years ago, June 18, 1808. The day of victory over Napoleonic troops. A month later, seventeen fishermen left for Brazil in small boats for the king, who had fled to that country because of the French invasion. The fishermen went to tell him that they had expelled the occupant and that he could safely return to Portugal.

Olhão is the last of the “fishing towns” to undergo transformation to tourism. All over the city you see houses that are being renovated. Ten years ago, the first newly arrived foreigners hardly dared walk around downtown at night because of the nuisances caused by prostitution, crime and drugs. No wonder columnist Arthur van Amerongen described Olhão as the “Detroit of the Algarve” at the time.

Olhão is a Portuguese town and municipality in the district of Faro. The municipality has a total area of 130 km² and has about 40,000 inhabitants. Olhão is located about 15 km from Faro airport towards the Spanish border. It is the first fishing village after the city of Faro . By car you are there in 15 minutes. With public transport you can take the bus at the airport or the coastal train from the center of Faro.

Olhão is a beautiful city for those who love authentic Portugal, with its history and culture, beautiful islands and beaches, nature reserve and beautiful countryside. Olhão itself does not have a beach, but it has a long promenade and two anchorages for the islands of Armona , Culatra and Farol. On these islands you have wonderful, long beaches with nice beach bars and sun lounger rentals. The boat trip takes about 15 minutes, depending on which island you choose.

Narrow streets, hidden squares: you can stroll in the old center of Olhão. Whenever I’m there, I discover other special facades, doors, door handles, etc. It’s impossible to get lost because you always come back to familiar territory; the coast or the central shopping street. And there you can relax on one of the cozy terraces.

A good way to get to know the historic center of Olhão is through the Rota das Lendas, a small pedestrian path with modern statues. You will also pass the 17th century Matriz Church (the largest church), the first stone building built in Olhão, financed by the fishermen. The prosperous houses in this area testify to the period of prosperity that this region experienced after the installation of the first sardine and tuna processing factory at the end of the 19th century.

Peter Cruiming
Peter's Desk · every Friday

Peter Cruiming

Every review is from his own table. His columns are where he tells you what's really happening around the Portuguese table.

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